6 spectacular national treasures in the South

The appeal of our first national river, designated in 1972, can be found in its quiet beauty. Yet it’s also discovered in the roar of white water along the Buffalo—one of the Lower 48’s few remaining free-flowing rivers. As I follow the Buffalo National River through areas where the rapids rise to a crescendo, the roar is music to my ears.

Although I don’t hear any startling elk bugles, signs alert me to the animal’s presence. Rocky Mountain elk, introduced in the 1980s to replace the Eastern elk that disappeared because of habitat destruction and overhunting, have carved out a place in this Ozark wilderness. They can often be seen in the Boxley Valley area. I don’t cross paths with resident black bears either, but I do spot a few white-tailed deer.

I also sense the presence of those who came before me. The Tyler Bend Visitors Center showcases evidence of Osage hunters who once roamed the land, and the remains of pioneer homesteads that date to the 1830s—like the Parker-Hickman Farmstead—still stand in the park.

Of the 3 ways to adequately explore the northwest Arkansas park’s approximately 95,000 acres, none are by car: Ride it, hike it, or float it. Horseback riding is popular in the Ponca Wilderness and Lower Buffalo Wilderness areas, while hikers can choose from more than 100 miles of day-use and backcountry trails throughout the park. The most popular route, Lost Valley Trail, leads to waterfalls and a 260-foot-long bluff shelter known as Cob Cave.

It’s not surprising that floating provides the best way to experience the Buffalo National River. A perfect paddling trip offers swift currents for thrills and calm stretches for contemplation. Timing is everything, so check with rangers on conditions before setting off. Free admission.

Is it land? Is it water? In a word, yes. The third-largest national park in the Lower 48, Everglades is a park unlike any other. With its marshes and mangrove forests, this southern Florida park has been called a “river of grass” for its sawgrass prairie. As one of the world’s largest wetlands, the Everglades supports a staggering number of species.

Winter is the best time to visit, with its low humidity, comfortable temperatures, and less likelihood of hurricanes and active mosquitos. Enjoy panoramic views from the Shark Valley Observation Tower, and get a more intimate perspective from the water—whether by airboat, canoe, or kayak.

Multiple entrances lead into the park, which is North America’s largest subtropical wilderness area. Everglades City on the Gulf of Mexico side gets you into the northern part, while Homestead on the Atlantic side is a good place to access the park’s southern portion. Admission, $35 per vehicle.

While the United States is home to an estimated 45,000 caves, none compare to Mammoth Cave National Park near Brownsville in west-central Kentucky. It’s known as the world’s longest cave system, with 426 mapped miles and an unknown number of undiscovered passages.

Native Americans explored it long before Europeans ever thought about crossing the ocean. Settlers discovered the cave in the late 1700s and used its minerals to make gunpowder. When the War of 1812 ended, tourism potential emerged. Eventually, new passages were blazed, and in 1946 Mammoth Cave became a national park.

Except for the self-guided Discovery Tour (adults, $12), all cave tours are ranger-guided. Boat tours in the subterranean rivers stopped in the early 1990s because of environmental concerns, but some walking tours skirt the waterways.

The Violet City Tour, lit only by lanterns, takes you through underground cottages built for 19th-century tuberculosis patients (adults, $32).

Or discover the cavern’s remarkable collection of stalactites and stalagmites on the relatively easy Frozen Niagara Tour (adults, $26).

Prefer fresh-air hiking? The 1.5-mile out-and-back Cedar Sink Trail highlights fascinating formations and seasonal wildflowers. For fall foliage, seek out Sunset Point overlooking the Green River valley. Free admission.

This cultural buffet in south Louisiana is a bargain—6 parks in one. I was puzzled by what a swamp, a battlefield, Cajun folkways, and the French Quarter had to do with one another. And even more puzzling was the connection to pirate Jean Lafitte. But to experience the park is to understand it.

A smuggler who was involved in the African slave trade, Lafitte became adept at navigating the marshes of the Barataria estuary. He got to know the people there, particularly the exiled Acadians, who became known as Cajuns. When the War of 1812 arrived, he and his compatriots, known as Baratarians, joined General Andrew Jackson in the Battle of New Orleans to defeat the British a final time.

In addition to sharing Lafitte’s complicated history, the park offers a cultural immersion into another way of life. Learn about Cajun music and dancing at the Prairie Acadian Cultural Center in Eunice (currently closed for renovations; scheduled to reopen in late 2024). Dive deeper into Cajun folkways and customs at the Acadian Cultural Center in Lafayette and the Wetlands Acadian Cultural Center in Thibodaux. Walk the boardwalks at the Barataria Preserve to see alligators, egrets, and giant old cypress trees.

Near New Orleans’ French Quarter, stop by the Chalmette Battlefield and Chalmette National Cemetery. Outdoor exhibits here illustrate the Battle of New Orleans and all those who helped the United States’ forces defeat the British, including pirates, slaves, free Blacks, and Native Americans. Free admission.

The fact that Great Smoky Mountains National Park is the most-visited national park comes as no surprise to anyone who has been here. The southern Appalachian hot spot that lies on the border of Tennessee and North Carolina has views in abundance. Take the Cades Cove Loop Road for the scenery and wildlife; traffic jams can mean black bears have been spotted.

Thanks to its lofty elevations and ample rainfall, the park is full of waterfalls. The impressive 80-foot Laurel Falls is perhaps the most popular, but check ahead for trail construction. Grotto Falls, located in an old-growth forest, has a trail running behind the waterfall. Head to Rainbow Falls on a sunny afternoon for a good chance at seeing—you guessed it—a rainbow.

You’re almost guaranteed to encounter a line of cars in mid-summer and October. Early-morning visits can put you ahead of the pack, but views can be hampered by thick fog. The park’s website has a congestion-forecasting calendar. Free admission; parking, $5.

One of 6 national parkways, the 444-mile Natchez Trace Parkway follows a historical trail first used by Native Natchez people. It was later trod by soldiers, slave traders, settlers, and “Kaintucks,” flatboat operators who delivered cargo to Natchez, Mississippi, or New Orleans and then walked the route back home.

The best way to see the parkway—which runs northeasterly from Natchez to Nashville, Tennessee—is by car or bicycle. Along the way, you’ll encounter swamps, bayous, forests, prairies, an ever-changing palette of wildflowers, and 6 Native American mounds.

Nearly 40 trails along the parkway showcase its beauty and history, with some routes leading to original sections of the Natchez Trace. For instance, the Footsteps through History Trail near Hohenwald, Tennessee, includes a preserved part of the Old Trace where explorer Meriwether Lewis took his last steps.

Karen Gibson is a frelance writer from Norman, Oklahoma.