What to do in Gloucester, Massachusetts

In Gloucester, boats unload catches of squirming lobsters, bluefin tuna, haddock, and cod at the bustling docks, as they have for centuries, surrounded by this Massachusetts town’s panoramas of postcard perfection. That duality has been irresistible to artists for more than 150 years.

Gloucester’s working waterfront often serves as inspiration for artists. Photo by Mauritius Images GmbH/Stock Photo

“There’s something about the water and the working waterfront,” says Loren Doucette, a Gloucester artist and former head of the Cultural Center at Rocky Neck, a community gathering and gallery space (closed Mondays through Thursdays).

“It’s not just pretty. These scenic vistas are everywhere, but there’s [also] this sharpness, from the rocky shorelines and the extreme danger of being a fisherman. As a painter, that kind of grit is attractive.”

Gloucester is America’s oldest fishing port. The Rocky Neck Art Colony, one of the country’s oldest art colonies, is based here. Photo by Gail Maloney/Alamy Stock Photo

Those who trawl the waters are just as drawn to the duality. “When you travel in and out of [Gloucester] harbor, there’s this magic,” says Captain TJ Ott, a commercial fisher. He appears on Wicked Tuna, the National Geographic series that follows Gloucester fishers battling to haul in big fish. “You can feel the history, going past 10 Pound Island and the paint factory. It pulls you in, and a lot of places don’t have that.”

Captain TJ Ott appears on Wicked Tuna, a National Geographic series that follows commercial Gloucester fishers like himself. He also collects art from the area. Photo by PFTV/Kyle Haggerty

Here are some tips for exploring one of the few spots in New England where the waterfront is still working, and so are the artists.

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Visiting art galleries in Gloucester

Walk in the footsteps of Winslow Homer and Mark Rothko on the Rocky Neck Historic Art Trail. This self-guided tour explores one of the country’s oldest artist colonies, passing places such as the mansard house made famous by artist Edward Hopper and Banner Hill, a vista that has inspired hundreds of landscape paintings.

The Salted Cod Arthouse is a former warehouse for preserving fish. It now serves coffee, wine and beer, and light bites. The space also showcases a rotating collection of local art for sale. Photo by Thomas Aurelio

Purchase works by living artists at The Salted Cod Arthouse, a former warehouse for preserving fish that now combines a convivial spot for coffee, wine, and light bites with a rotating collection from about 30 local artists whose paintings, ceramics, jewelry, and photography are for sale. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

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Salted Cod Arthouse owners Thomas Aurelio (left) and Matthew Moynahan enjoy a drink in front of local art for sale. Photo by Thomas Aurelio

Ott has tied up his boat, the FV Hot Tuna, at Rocky Neck for the past 14 years. Surrounded by galleries and artist workspaces, he can’t resist shopping there. “I have so much art in my house that I don’t have enough walls,” he says with a laugh.

Abstract oil painter Sallie Strand lives and works in the Rocky Neck Art Colony. Photo by Clark Linehan

Explore bold abstract oil paintings by Sallie Strand and perhaps make an appointment to visit Joe’s Fish Print Shanty, where Joe Higgins makes beautiful art by pressing actual dead fish in ink. Of course, Ott has immortalized a few tuna tails that way.

Among the many delights at the Cape Ann Museum in downtown Gloucester are two galleries devoted to the history of the city’s offshore fishing industry. Another features works by 19th-century marine artist Fitz Henry Lane. Closed Mondays.

Dining in Gloucester

Few places in the world serve bluefin as fresh as at Tonno Gloucester. Chef, owner, and fisher Anthony Caturano frequently butchers whole fish to keep up with demand.

In addition to tuna (the restaurant’s name is the Italian word for the fish), the menu of coastal Italian cuisine features house-made pastas; smoky grilled octopus and other fresh fish; and a stellar crudo that changes daily. Ott visits so often that the register has a special TJ OG key to summon his favorite tuna belly crudo.

For more than 60 years, Gloucester House, helmed by generations of the Linquata family, has specialized in classic New England fare such as locally sourced baked haddock, fried clams, and—of course—boiled lobster dinner.

During the summer, it operates as the less formal Blue Collar Lobster. Gaze through the waterfront windows overlooking the harbor and you might just see the boat hauling the day’s catch pass by. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

Where to stay in Gloucester

The glamorous beachfront Beauport Hotel is within walking distance of downtown’s shops and restaurants. Built in 2016, it evokes the feel of swanky seaside resorts from earlier eras. The hotel has expansive harbor views, a rooftop pool and hot tub, and rocking chairs on the deck with snug throws to ward off ocean breezes.

Guest rooms are stocked with robes, slippers, and high-end bath amenities, while nightly turndown service leaves a little locally made gift on your pillow. High-season rates start at $581 but can plunge to under $300 in January. AAA discount available. $15 daily parking fee.

Ocean House Hotel at Bass Rocks has been operating for more than 100 years. A stay here includes complimentary bicycle rentals and breakfast. Photo courtesy Newport Hotel Group

Listed on the National Register of Historic Places, the Ocean House Hotel at Bass Rocks has welcomed guests for more than 100 years. Its spectacular views overlook Cape Ann’s rocky coast.

Take a dip in the outdoor heated pool and enjoy spectacular views at the Ocean House Hotel at Bass Rocks. Photo courtesy Newport Hotel Group

Hop on a complimentary bike to visit nearby Good Harbor Beach, which routinely turns up on lists of the country’s top beaches, or just take a dip in the heated outdoor pool. Breakfast is included, along with discounts at the nearby Bass Rocks Golf Course. Midweek rates start at $229, plus a $22 per-room per-night resort fee. AAA discount available.

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Newburyport resident and frequent contributor Jeanne O’Brien Coffey grew up near the sea and draws creative and edible inspiration from it daily.