Hawai‘i Island Road Trip Itinerary

If you are an avid road-tripper, add this to your bucket list: circling Hawai‘i Island by car along the Hawai‘i Belt Road.

Known officially as Māmalahoa Highway and including parts of state routes 11, 19, and 190, the roughly 230-mile drive delivers views of cascading waterfalls, rolling hills dotted with grazing cows, and dramatic coastlines—but with less traffic and fewer hairpin turns than another alluring byway, Maui’s road to Hāna.

Driving along the Hawaiʻi Belt Road, you’ll encounter tropical as well as desert climate zones, and scenery that includes craggy ʻōhiʻa, inky black lava, and red volcanic dirt. This 3-day itinerary starts in Hilo (I live in Volcano, less than 30 miles south, and this is my favorite route around the island), but since the route is a loop, you could also begin your journey from Kona or anywhere else along the route.

Day 1

67 miles: Hilo > Pāpa‘ikou > Pepe‘ekeo > Honokaʻa > Waimea

This portion of the Hawaiʻi Belt Road is known as Route 19.

Before setting off, stock up on fresh fruit and snacks at the bustling Hilo Farmers Market, open 7 a.m.–3 p.m. daily.

Stock up on road-trip provisions at bustling Hilo Farmers Market. Photo by Andrew Richard Hara

Then proceed north toward ‘Onomea Scenic Drive near Pāpa‘ikou (look for the SCENIC ROUTE sign at the intersection with Old Māmalahoa Highway).

Aerial view of Hilo's Honoli'i Stream bridge on Highway 19.

A bird's-eye view of Highway 19's Honoli'i Stream bridge in south Hilo. Photo by Andrew Richard Hara

These beautiful 4 miles weave through a lush rainforest, passing trickling waterfalls, creeks, and moss-draped bridges.

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Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden gum tree.

A large gum tree fascinates young guests at Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden in Pāpa‘ikou. Photo by Andrew Richard Hara

Park at the Hawai‘i Tropical Bioreserve & Garden lot (kama‘āina, $25) and check out the 20-acre garden’s diverse ecosystem, featuring more than 2,500 species of multihued plants and exotic flowers. A trail within the garden leads to ‘Onomea Bay, where ocean waves crash against rugged cliffs.

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Next, drive 9.5 miles north to ʻAkaka Falls State Park (free entry for kamaʻāina), where a short, paved 0.4-mile loop takes you to vista points to view the 100-foot Kahuna Falls and dramatic ‘Akaka Falls, where the water plunges 442 feet into a gorge.

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For lunch, head about 33 miles up the Hāmākua Coast. Stop at Tex Drive In in Honoka‘a for a plate lunch of kalua pork and cabbage or Korean chicken while admiring the ocean views. Save room for the drive-in’s hot and fluffy cream-filled malasadas (or take some to go).

Detour less than a mile away for the boutiques, gift shops, and restaurants that line Honoka‘a’s historic downtown.

Visit the Honoka‘a Heritage Center to learn about the town’s sugar plantation and ranching history, then make your way through the town along SR 240 to the Waipi‘o Valley Lookout for views of the sacred, 5-mile-deep Waipiʻo Valley, the childhood home of King Kamehameha I. (The lookout is open but the road down to the valley is open only to locals and tours.)

Return to Route 19 and continue west, likely past cows napping and horses galloping on green pastureland.

Day 1’s final stop is Waimea, the breezy ranching town with a rich paniolo heritage. At the Anna Ranch Heritage Center (suggested donation: $10, adults; $5, keiki), tour the historic home of Anna Leialoha Lindsey Perry-Fiske, known to many as the Original Hawaiian Cowgirl.

Or, take an electric mountain bike tour of the 100-acre property, at one point climbing up a steep 1,200 feet to a resting spot with views of Mauna Kea, Mauna Loa, and Hualālai.

Wok-charred 'ahi at Merriman's Waimea. Most of the ingredients at chef Peter Merriman's flagship restaurant are locally sourced. Photo courtesy Merriman's Hawaii

For dinner, check out Merriman’s Waimea. Almost all the ingredients at chef Peter Merriman’s flagship restaurant are locally sourced. Try a surf-and-turf combo, like the duo plate of a roasted chateaubriand of Hawai‘i Island beef and curried Hāmākua Hamaoka macadamia nut–crusted fish.

Where to stay:

The paniolo-chic Kamuela Inn (kama‘āina rates start at about $250) is located a short walk from Merriman’s restaurant.

Or, for a splurge-worthy option, check out the AAA Four Diamond Fairmont Orchid, located 18 miles away on the picturesque Kohala Coast (AAA members receive 15% discount off daily rate. Daily resort fee: $48 plus tax). Soothe your muscles in the hot tub or heated oceanfront pool, both of which are open 24 hours.

Day 2

140 miles: Waimea > Captain Cook > Nāʻālehu > Punaluʻu > Volcano

This portion of the road trip travels from Route 19 to Route 11 and takes you from Waimea south to Nāʻālehu, then northeast to Volcano. Start the day with a filling Japanese breakfast of furikake-topped rice, a miso soup, fried fish, and a fish cake at Teshima’s Restaurant in Kealakekua, established in 1928 and one of the island’s oldest restaurants.

Feeling adventurous after breakfast? Hike the Captain Cook Monument Trail (Ka‘awaloa Trail), a challenging, 3-hour, 3.7-mile trek (downhill on the first half and a long incline on the way back; bring plenty of water; trail lacks bathroom facilities). End at the 1874-built Captain Cook Monument, near where the famous (or infamous, depending on whom you ask) British explorer met his end in 1779.

Or, take a snorkeling tour from Keauhou Bay, which also takes 3 hours but is less strenuous; one such tour vendor is Captain Cook Snorkeling Cruises (rates start at $149.95 for adults).

Coffee and Kona make an ideal pairing thanks in part to Kona’s rich volcanic soil. Photo by Douglass Peebles

Another less strenuous option is to visit the Kona Coffee Living History Farm (10 a.m.–2 p.m. Tuesdays and Fridays; $15 admission for kama‘āina). Stroll among coffee trees at the historic farm on a self-guided tour and talk story with costumed interpreters who demonstrate traditional crafts and tasks.

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Lava glow at Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park.

A multihued lava glow from a past volcanic eruption lights up the sky at Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park. Photo by Andrew Richard Hara

The winding Route 11 provides glimpses of the dramatic coastline as it weaves through neighborhoods, nature reserves, and sprawling lava fields. Two stops for panoramic vistas via hikes that vary in difficulty are Pu‘uhonua o Hōnaunau National Historic Park and Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park’s Kahuku Unit.

As you approach historic Waiʻōhinu town, look for the majestic Mark Twain Monkey Pod Tree alongside the road (park mauka). The noted writer and humorist is said to have planted it during a 4-month stay in Hawai‘i in 1866.

Try the popular garlic shrimp, steak, or açaí bowls at Aloha Mix Food Truck in Na‘alehu. Photo by Jim West/Alamy Stock Photo

For lunch, drive to Nā‘ālehu’s Aloha Mix Food Truck, which serves garlic shrimp, steak, and açaí bowls. About 9 miles northeast of Nā‘ālehu, pause for a picnic and (carefully, so as not to disturb the sea life) check out the tide pools at Punaluʻu Black Sand Beach. Hawksbill turtles and green turtles frequent the shoreline, generally from midday through the afternoon.

End your day about 30 miles northeast in Volcano with dinner at The Rim at Volcano House, within Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park (entry fee, $30 for private-vehicle pass).

Try their Big Island chicken stuffed with spinach, arugula, bell peppers, and local goat feta cheese, or New York strip steak with roasted Okinawa sweet potato puree. If you’re there during an eruption, you’ll be able to see the lava glow from the restaurant.

The park also has minimal light pollution and when the night falls, the sky glitters with stars, planets, and the Milky Way. On select nights through August 2024, the park’s After Dark in the Park program might include performances or talks at the Kīlauea Visitor Center auditorium (suggested donation, $2).

Where to stay:

Rooms at the historic 33-room Volcano House in Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park are comfortable but basic (no air-conditioning or television; nightly rates start at $80). Some have views of the Kīlauea caldera or the Halema‘uma‘u crater. (Note: Volcano is at an elevation of 4,000 feet and evening temps can dip to 50 degrees, so pack accordingly.)

Day 3

30 miles: Volcano > Mountain View > Hilo

The road trip’s last leg—from Volcano to Hilo—is the shortest, so you’ll have more time to explore each town. Start your morning by visiting the steam vents or lava tube, or by taking one of 12 suggested hikes at the Hawai‘i Volcanoes National Park.

Stop by Volcano Winery for a bottle of Muscat Dry (left) and their best-selling red, Volcano Red, among others. Photo by Andrew Richard Hara

From 6 to 10 a.m. on Sundays, Cooper Center’s Farmers Market in Volcano sells artisanal breads, homemade jams, and crafts. Swing by Volcano Winery to pick up a bottle of Volcano Red or Infusion Tea Wine, a macadamia nut–honey mead that’s steeped with roasted Japanese black tea. The winery offers tastings with crackers and cheese; be sure to designate a driver if you plan to participate.

Consider taking an educational caffeine break at Big Island Tea in Mountain View. Tour the 5-acre property that’s lush with tea plants, coffee plants, a bamboo grotto, and tropical plants (reservations are required; prices start at $500 for groups of 1 to 6 people).

Rare Bengal tigers at Pana‘ewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens near Hilo. Photo courtesy Panaʻewa Rainforest Zoo & Gardens

If you’re traveling with children, check out the free Panaʻewa Rainforest Zoo and Gardens just outside Hilo. Rare animals at this small zoo include neon-colored poisonous frogs and white Bengal tigers. From 1:30 to 2:30 p.m. on Saturdays, the little ones can interact with a miniature horse, a donkey, and pigs at the petting zoo.

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For lunch, you’ll be spoiled for choice at Suisan Fish Market, which has ‘ahi, marlin, uku, hamachi, and salmon poke, as well as tako (octopus), scallop, and Kaua‘i prawns, all of it to go.

Lili'uokalani Gardens' pagoda and fishpond.

A brilliantly colored Japanese pagoda frames the view at Lili‘uokalani Gardens in Hilo. Photo by Andrew Richard Hara

Find a shady spot nearby at the idyllic Liliʻuokalani Gardens, the largest authentic ornamental Japanese garden outside of Japan, with fishponds, bridges, pagodas, and Japanese stone lanterns.

A banyan tree–shaded path at Lili‘uokalani Gardens. Photo by Andrew Richard Hara

Spend the afternoon perusing the Pacific Tsunami Museum ($15 for adults) or whimsical boutique stores in downtown Hilo, and end your trip with a celebratory dinner at Jackie Rey’s Ohana Grill Hilo in the historic Kaikodo Building.

Enjoy modern pūpū such as kalua pork spring rolls and an ‘ahi poke tower, then feast on steak au poivre with green peppercorn cream sauce or homemade lobster ravioli with seared Hawaiian prawns.

Where to stay:

The 379-room Grand Naniloa Hotel Hilo (nightly rates start at $270, plus a $39 resort fee) overlooks picturesque Hilo Bay. Its expansive grounds feature an oceanfront pool, a 9-hole golf course, and well-manicured gardens. Guests may borrow paddleboards, kayaks, and snorkeling equipment during their stay.

Rachel Ng is an award-winning travel and food writer based in Volcano. She is a co-author of National Geographic’s Great Outdoors U.S.A.