Restaurant review: Willie’s Modern Fare, Rancho Mirage

The formal dining scene has recently shed many of its traditions to attract the next generation of patrons. Not wanting to appear stuffy or intimidating, chef-driven restaurants that previously touted carefully coursed meals and bow-tied waiters have evolved into hip bistros pushing shared plates that arrive in no discernable order, delivered by servers in jeans and sneakers.

These days, it’s rare to find an establishment such as Willie’s Modern Fare, a restaurant that emphasizes white-glove service in a warm and inviting atmosphere.

On each visit, after I ordered a cocktail, servers asked if I wanted “a moment to enjoy it” before ordering my food. The chance to linger over a drink before making culinary decisions relaxed me instantly.

Soon thereafter, fresh-fruit service included a choice of lime, lemon, or orange slices for my water. Individual bread service (presented warm with creamy butter) followed. If I left the table, I would return to find my napkin folded and placed atop my plate. Hospitality of such a high standard raises expectations for the food, which does not disappoint.

Starters include a sampling of asparagus, mushroom, and tomato soups served in adorable individual mini-mugs, and a nice pair of savory butternut squash ravioli topped with crunchy pumpkin seed granola that offers an autumnal blast no matter the season.