Why is the white sesame Caesar salad on almost every table at Ryla for brunch, lunch, or dinner? The addictive heap of Little Gem lettuce, blanketed in a fine snow of Parmesan and drizzled with a creamy, anchovy-rich dressing, exemplifies how husband-and-wife chefs Ray Hayashi and Cynthia Hetlinger can make a routine dish their own.
Hokkaido milk bread and its buttery, seaweed-tinged spread accompany pork tonkatsu at lunch and brunch.
Hayashi, a Gardena native, finds inspiration in his Japanese American roots, while Hetlinger draws on her upbringing in Taiwan. Subtle inventiveness is a hallmark of their combined style. They bathe Kusshi oysters in tart coconut milk, adding a few drops of Espelette pepper oil and bright green aloe to achieve briny, creamy harmony with a hint of heat. The Hokkaido milk bread might be the best dinner roll you’ve ever eaten, thanks to a buttery, seaweed-tinged spread.
As with most restaurants, the small plates (listed under “To Share”) are bolder than the mains, but you’ll find seasonally driven options across the menu, like an heirloom tomato panzanella and spring asparagus on a bed of crisp fried potato shreds.
Shoyu ramen gets a flavor boost from black garlic oil.
Hetlinger and Hayashi have created a beautiful space where every detail—the cocktails, the crane wallpaper, the dark wood accents, the Japanese whiskey program—has been well chosen. The result? A vibe that’s fun enough for a noisy group brunch, special enough for date night, and casual enough for a hang after escaping the Hermosa Beach Pier. Ryla ticks all the boxes.
Best dishes
Kusshi oysters onthe half-shell, white sesame Caesar salad, Korean-style spare ribs, shoyu ramen, pork tonkatsu
Dinner prices
Starters, $9–$23; entrées, $26–$97; desserts, $10–$14
Info
1220 Hermosa Avenue
AAA discounts
