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Restaurant review: Pijja Palace, Silver Lake

Jalapeño, cilantro, mint, and chives flavor the green wings at Pijja Palace.

The phrase “fusion cuisine” sends shivers down the spine of many diners—and rightfully so. Pijja Palace isn’t driven to transform the term from the butt of a joke into a badge of honor, although it would succeed if it was.

Exterior of Pijja Palace

A blend of Indian and Italian dishes await inside Pijja Palace.

The restaurant is often described as an Indian sports bar, a moniker that doesn’t quite fit even if the small, always-packed spot has enough beers on tap and televisions to qualify. It’s too low-key, too idiosyncratic, and too personal.

Instead, the menu offers a note-perfect mash-up of Indian and Italian cooking. Under the creative eye of owner Avish Naran, Pijja Palace earned a mention in Michelin’s Bib Gourmand barely 6 months after opening.

The amalgamation of cuisines is best expressed in the malai rigatoni, a bowl of noodles in a creamy tomato- and coriander-based sauce.

A pile of onion rings

Dosa onion rings.

Do not miss the onion rings. Coated in a thick batter that remains crisp thanks to a combination of fermented lentil and rice flours, they’re perfect with a dab of sweet-hot mango chutney.

Green tikka pizza

Green tikka pizza comes with turkey kafta.

Pijja Palace has 4 kinds of wings, coded by color. The green ones—a sharp, tart blaze of jalapeño, cilantro, mint, and chives—are the standout. Pizzas come with a choice of 3 sauces and medium-crisp, medium-chewy crusts that don’t fall within a specific genre.

Standard desserts are soft-serve ice cream fancified with cardamom or chai. If specials like banoffee pie or jaggery trifle with mango are available, snap them up to ease the pain of a mandatory 19% service charge (which is shared among the entire staff).

Best dishes at Pijja Palace

Dosa onion rings, green wings, malai rigatoni

Dinner prices

Starters, $7–$15; entrées, $14–$25; desserts, $8

Info

2711 W. Sunset Boulevard. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.

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