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Restaurant review: Pez Coastal Kitchen, Pasadena

Chilled appetizers at Pez Coastal Kitchen in Pasadena include, from left, steelhead trout rillettes over black rice cakes and beets with burrata and hazelnuts.

Diverse seafood preparations are a signature of Pez Coastal Kitchen. Inspirations from Asia and the Middle East energize the California menu in a restaurant that seamlessly integrates the contrasting elements of a New England oyster bar and a French bistro.

Pez interior dining area.

Asia and the Middle East influence the decor at Pez Coastal Kitchen in Pasadena.

Pez occupies a historic Old Pasadena building that has been dramatically reimagined since its previous burger-centric tenant departed, with 1896 brick now juxtaposed with modern design elements. A richly grained quartzite-topped bar lines one side of the room, while graceful arches and potted palms echo the menu’s coastal influences.

Seared bluefin tuna over avocado labneh.

An appetizer of seared bluefin tuna arrives in a pool of avocado labneh.

On a regularly tweaked menu, appetizers often include beets with burrata and hazelnuts in a hibiscus vinaigrette, and seared bluefin tuna with avocado labneh and truffle-lime vinaigrette. Octopus was recently charred in a spicy peanut-sesame sauce and paired with a green papaya salad.

Among the best chilled seafood starters is steelhead trout rillette, a moist fish preparation slathered over black rice cakes on a platter drizzled with chipotle aioli. Each cake is topped with trout roe and pickled shallots for a pleasant balance of saltiness and acidity.

Among larger plates, crispy-skinned sea bass comes with parsley-infused polenta cakes, a tomato-poblano sauce, and smoky eggplant puree. Carnivores will welcome a New York steak with peppercorn sauce and fries, a classic bistro dish, or hickory-smoked baby back ribs. Chef Bret Thompson’s inspiration for the sweet-and-tangy citrus barbecue sauce is Thai, but the ribs retain the soul of a Carolina smokehouse.

For vegetarians, a mountainous portion of charred hickory-smoked cauliflower with kumquat glaze arrives with shallot-infused yogurt.

The global wine list is moderately priced, and imaginative cocktails are smartly presented. For dessert, the citrus–olive oil cake is layered with pistachio cream and crowned with limoncello granita.

Best dishes

Steelhead trout rillette, sea bass in tomato-poblano sauce, baby back ribs, citrus–olive oil cake

Dinner prices

Starters, $11–$44; entrées, $38–$57; desserts, $14

Info

61 N. Raymond Avenue, Pasadena. Closed Mondays.

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