Bring an appetite to Moo’s Craft Barbecue, a temple of Texas-style smoked meat. Choices include pork spareribs, brisket, turkey, and sausages.
October 13, 2024
Those who seek legit Texas-style barbecue that’ll inspire the most devout worshipper at the church of smoked meat will find salvation at Moo’s Craft Barbecue.
In 2017, husband-and-wife team Andrew and Michelle Muñoz launched a backyard pop-up after he got serious about his meat-smoking hobby and she perfected the sides.
Order at the counter, then find a table and wait for your food to arrive on a metal tray. Visit the bar for a local craft beer.
Four years later, they opened a brick-and-mortar spot a few blocks from where Michelle grew up. It has since been named a Michelin Bib Gourmand and a James Beard Award semifinalist.
The brisket is perfection. Seasoned simply and smoked long and low over white oak on offset smokers, it’s not too fatty nor too lean, not too salty nor too peppery. Pork spareribs infused with a deep smokiness practically fall off the bone.
Moo’s sides are worthy accompaniments. They include dill-heavy potato salad (pictured), mac-and-cheese, and spicy chili made with brisket trimmings.
Order one of the three sausages, each with the ideal snap and firmness: mild garlic; jalapeño with cheddar; or the standout, a blend of brisket and Duroc pork ground with fire-roasted poblano peppers and Oaxaca cheese. Angeleno vibes commune with Texas tradition in the chewy, caramelized pork belly burnt ends glazed with Korean gochujang.
Groups should splurge on El Trio, a $184 sampler platter with a pound each of brisket and pork ribs, two sausages, and a choice of two sides. Amen.
Brisket, pork ribs, poblano queso Oaxaca sausage, Texas chili, potato salad, esquites
Starters, $7–$12; entrées, $8–$45; desserts, $8–$45
2118 N. Broadway, Lincoln Heights. Closed Mondays–Wednesdays.
