There’s no place in Los Angeles quite like Yangban Society. It’s a creative melding that's equal parts Californian and Korean, gourmet and casual, restaurant and deli.
Some items, like the jammy soy eggs and the pickled cauliflower, are available year-round. Others, like the pea shoot and chive salad, are seasonal. Chef-owners Katianna and John Hong have a flair for vegetables.
Most veggie dishes are a riot of flavors and textures, like the stack of pear and avocado slices tossed in a tart mustard vinaigrette and sprinkled with toasted almonds.
The honey-walnut carrots are almost caramelized, while the roasted mushrooms get a funky swagger from doenjang oil. The sweet, soy-garlic chicken wings are perfect with an order of “buchu” fries, dusted in Parmesan and spices. The smoked trout schmear pays homage to Jewish delis, while the bolo rice substitutes black beans for tomatoes to revamp Bolognese. The braised beef short ribs are deservedly popular, and the fluffy buttermilk biscuits in creamy curry are criminally underrated.
Enjoy it all with a bottle of sparkling makgeolli (rice wine). (Be sure to designate a driver if you plan to drink alcohol.) Soft-serve ice cream made from buffalo milk is the one standout dessert—and you should get it.
Yangban Society
Dinner prices
Starters, $7–$14; entrées, $14–$34; desserts, $7–10.
Information
712 S. Santa Fe Avenue, Los Angeles. (213) 866-1987.