Restaurant review: Gigi’s, Palm Springs

I sometimes seek restaurants that allow me to completely forget where I am—where only the vibe, my dinner companions, and the food in front of me define my experience. At other times, I want a dining excursion that fully encompasses, and even amplifies, its unique corner of the globe. Gigi’s, one of the latest arrivals on Palm Springs’ ever-expanding culinary scene, is a shining example of the latter.

Tucked into a corner of the trendy V Palm Springs by Sonder hotel, Gigi’s welcoming, resort-like atmosphere has just the right amount of retro design touches. The dining room is charming and intimate, but I’m repeatedly drawn to the expansive plant-lined patio, where the right table will reward you with a stunning skyline of the San Jacinto Mountains.

Hors d’oeuvres are modern, gourmet twists on appetizer classics. The pig in a blanket surrounds hearty Wagyu beef hot dogs with soft, flaky pastry. Onion dip gains extravagance with a light dusting of bacon powder and a dollop of caviar: The crispy waffle fries that accompany the dip make this a must-order starter for the table.

The cool, crunchy charred broccoli Waldorf salad combines roasted and raw broccoli, tangy apple slivers, and sweet grapes over a delectable schmear of creamy yogurt. You can add a protein to make this an entrée, but I’d rather share it as a side dish.