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Restaurant review: Butcher’s House Brasserie, Costa Mesa

At Butcher’s House Brasserie in Costa Mesa, even salads such as this Sweet Gem can be touched by the grill.

The restaurant industry’s ebbs and flows have never felt more transitory. In the years since the pandemic upended life as we knew it, even the most beloved culinary institutions haven’t been spared from the tumult. Indeed, at Costa Mesa’s design-minded SoCo Collection, the departure of longstanding favorite Taco María signaled a shift. But Butcher’s House Brasserie, from chef Jeoffrey Offer, brings new hope.

Raised in Toulouse, in the south of France, Offer had long dreamed of coming to the United States. After a stint with the Parisian café chain Moulin, Offer now has his own showcase with Butcher’s House Brasserie.

Offer, a butcher’s son, has crafted a menu that pays homage to traditional, meaty brasserie cooking. Much of it is touched by the restaurant’s wood-burning, Santa Maria–style grill. Take the Sweet Gem salad, a blistered wedge of lightly grilled lettuce, pickled onion, cheese, and ribbons of prosciutto.

Bucher's House Brasserie rib eye being slathered in sauce.

Diners can choose from among 5 sauces to accompany steaks, such as this 14-ounce rib eye.

Steaks are essential: The 14-ounce rib eye and the bone-in New York are both excellent options, expertly cooked to the temperature of your choice. A concise list of house specials rounds out Butcher’s House’s entrées. Among others, there’s a popular and tremendously porky Toulouse sausage, textbook duck confit, and pan-seared branzino. Save room on the table for a side of duck fat–roasted potatoes shocked with a hit of garlicky parsley sauce.

Butcher's House Brasserie Butcher’s Burger.

The Butcher’s Burger comes with bacon, confit onion, lettuce, and Comté cheese.

Butcher’s House also does brunch Fridays through Sundays. The croque madame satisfies those seeking an eggy start, while the restaurant’s namesake burger (available at dinner as well) is a rush of French decadence: dry-aged beef, thick-cut bacon, confit onion, lettuce, and Comté cheese.

Best dishes

Sweet Gem salad, pork pâté, 14-ounce rib eye, duck confit, roasted potatoes, Butcher’s Burger

Dinner prices

Starters, soups, and salads, $12–$22; steaks and entrées, $21–$56; sides, $9–$14; desserts, $11–$12

Address

3321 Hyland Avenue, Suite D, Costa Mesa

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