Restaurant Review: Bar Le Cote, Los Olivos

When thinking about ideal locations for a modern seafood tavern, the Santa Ynez Valley may not be the first place that comes to mind. But when the chef is Brad Mathews and he’s partnered with Daisy and Greg Ryan, whose Bell’s in Los Alamos earned a Michelin star in 2021, it makes perfect sense.

Mathews’ passion for seafood shows in his background, which includes stints at Fishing With Dynamite in Manhattan Beach, where he served as executive sous-chef under David LeFevre, and at the Morro Bay Oyster Company.

At Bar Le Côte, he crafts an innovative seasonal menu that transports diners from the historic stagecoach-stop town of Los Olivos to stylish coastal Europe with dishes such as pulpo a la plancha (Spanish octopus with fingerling potatoes, frisée, and saffron aioli) and dry-aged branzino with spring onion puree, pickled mustard seed, and onion jam.

A pan of arroz verde with cherry tomatoes, summer squash, shishito peppers, and basil

Arroz verde with cherry tomatoes, summer squash, shishito peppers, and basil at Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos.

The handsome dining room, clad with patterned tile floors and green walls, is anchored by an open kitchen. Bar seats at the kitchen counter offer an up-close view of the culinary action, and there’s also seating on the front patio. The casually sophisticated setting works well with the deceptively simple menu.

Mathews sources top-quality seafood, which arrives freshly caught or dry aged, mostly from Central Coast fishers, and produce from area farmers.

To kick things off at dinner, share some briney-sweet oysters, Santa Barbara sea urchin, or peel-and-eat shrimp on ice. Move on to the delicate day boat scallop crudo and the perfectly executed whole-roasted sea bream with golden crispy skin—presented on a bed of fresh herbs with a ramekin of romesco sauce and grilled lemon, it’s elegant in its simplicity. The arroz verde is a flavor-packed vegetarian paella perfect for sharing.

Roasted sea bream arranged over a bed of herbs with lemon slices

Whole-roasted sea bream at Bar Le Côte in Los Olivos.

Lunch standouts include the fish fillet sandwich, the fried oyster po’boy made with plump Morro Bay Oyster Company Pacific Gold oysters, and the chilled shrimp salad with Finley Farms red oak lettuce, spring onion, chèvre, pine nuts, and sherry vinaigrette.

Finish with the sublime Spanish citrus olive oil cake. Choose sips from a list of rotating draft beers and wines from small West Coast producers and select European estates. Closed Mondays and Tuesdays.